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Basic Working
With Materials
By: Kristoph Minchau and Jim
McGinn
Safety
- Hind sight is better than no sight. WEAR
SAFETY GLASSES whenever you are cutting,
drilling, grinding, filing, punching, sanding,
heating, SOLDERING, and anything else that might
cause pieces or bits to fly.
- When working with rotating machinery (for
example, Dremel tools, lathes, etc.), make sure
all clothing (like sleeves) and long hair is
tucked in, and wear hearing protectors (it's much
more enjoyable).
- Be CAREFUL.
Plastics:
Attributes:
- Easy to work with.
- Soft, and light.
- Strength (5-10 ksi)
- Low softening point (143-171C).
- Two main types Thermosets (two substances
are mixed together to form plastic cannot be
reheated and re-formed), Thermoplastics (has
a relatively low melting point so for example can
be heated and bent)
- Some plastics include: ABS (large black
pipes and white), Acrilic (PlexiGlass),
Epoxies, Nylon, Delrin, Polyelthelene (mostly in
sheets), Styrene, Polyurethane, PVC, and
Lexan (used in the BattleBots Box to protect
spectators, and to make 'bullitproof' 'glass').
Manipulating:
- Cutting / Drilling:
- Tin Snips (Nice clean cuts).
- Hack saw (don't cut too fast, or the
plastic will melt).
- "Utility" (or Hobby) Knife
and a metal edged ruler.
- Do NOT use a scroll saw due to small
blade (it typically 'melts' it's way
through the plastic).
- Can be drilled (best if drilled by hand).
- Punched.
- Shaping:
- Heat.(Softens at about 290-340F or
143-171C)
- Use a strip heater (or use a stove
element with two heavy tiles to form a
thin strip of heat, or your toaster).
- Machining
- Can be machined and manipulated a lot
like wood, but you have to be careful
that you don't go too fast and start to
melt the plastic, because then you are no
longer manipulating the same material
that you started out with.
- Recommendation:
- Try to stick with Thermoplastics because
they are bendable when you heat them.
- Basically get 1/16" sheet of
Styrene.
- Or try a 1/16" ABS sheet.
Sources:
- PM Hobbies (small pieces and expensive).
- Model Land (also small pieces and expensive).
- GE PolymerShapes (larger
amounts (for example 8'x4' sheets (perfect
for your 10cm x 10cm mini)) for much cheaper per
square foot (ex. $50 for 8' x 4' for
1/8" ABS sheet (gaurunteed to last you
a few years))) phn: 250-1670.
Metals:
Aluminium:
Attributes:
- Light.
- Soft
- Strength:10-70 ksi depending on type typical
10-30 ksi (depends on type (ex. Aircraft
Aluminium is stronger)).
- Good strength to weight ratio approximately 2-2/3
times better then steel.
- Very hard to weld, solder to, glue to, and
sometimes bolts can creep. But for small stuff
nothing beats a few rivets and or bolts.
- One of the most common metals used in robot
building due to it's light weight (try to
keep in mind the weight restrictions), good
weight to strength ratio, and ability to be
easily machined, formed, and cut.
Manipulating:
- Cutting/Drilling:
- Hack Saw (Remember Aluminium is
softer then Steel so in some cases it can
cut like butter)
- Tin Snips (Can cut up to 1/8"
thick if you really put the effort in
according to Jim)
- "Utility" Knife, and a metal
edged ruler to score, and bend to
break (use a knife with the snap-off
blades, so you can cut a bunch of pieces
and then snap-off the blade, and then you
are left with a brand new knife edge).
- Band saw, Jig saw, or scroll
saw (only for thin sheet metal) with
appropriate metal blade
- Metal Shear
- Dremel with cutting disc.
- Use a file to file edges smooth.
- Drilling: use normal HSS metal drill
bits (cutting fluid can be used but is
not mandatory).
- Punch
- Shaping:
- Clamping in vice and pounding with a
hammer.
- 'Bending bars'.
- 'Work hardened' can only bend once.
- Brake.
- Misc:
- Do not try to bend Aluminium more than
once (expecially the extruded stuff)
and no more than 90 degrees because it
gets weakened to the point it will easily
break.
Sources:
- Metal Supermarkets, lots of miscellaneous stuff
with a LARGE selection of various metals, sheets,
rods, etc. at a reasonable price and they cut to
length.
- Hardware stores(Revy, Home Depot, Canadian Tire),
sells a few plates of Aluminium plate, but mostly
extruded Aluminium tubing (box, 'U', and
Circular), which is good for frames. But
expensive
- Calgary Metal, Various sizes of new and scrap
metal (good if you want thicker plates then
you can find in hardware stores) and dirt
cheap (pay by the pound (Aluminum is
light). New stuff, lots of stuff, and big stuff.
Steel:
Attributes:
- Hard.
- Strength 60-200 ksi. Typical 60-90 ksi.
- Strong.
- Need to use HSS tools for everything, and
preferably things with Carbide, Titanium, or
Cobalt in them or coated.
- Heavy.
- Hard.
- Most is weldable and solderable.
- Don't use High Carbon Steel or tool steel because
it is approaching the hardness of the tools you
are using (bad).
- Hard.
Manipulating:
- Cutting / Drilling:
- Hack Saw.
- Dremel with cut-off wheel.
- For thin sheet metal use Tin Snips.
- Bandsaw or Jig Saw (mostly only on sheet
metal)
- Shear.
- Drilling: HSS drill bits with
cutting oil and a lot of time and
patience.
- Shaping:
- Clamping in Vice and big
hammer (release a lot of stress).
- Bending bars.
- A good file to file razor sharp edges
smooth.
- Grinder.
- Brake.
- Sandpaper 220x grit for cleaning grease
and rust.
- Recommendation:
- Music Wire should be avoided because of
it's high hardness (DO NOT cut
with side cutters use a Dremel cut-off
wheel)
- Cold rolled steel is good for most
applications.
Sources:
- Metal Supermarkets, lots of miscellaneous stuff
with a LARGE selection of various metals, sheets,
rods, etc. at a reasonable price and they cut to
length.
- Scrap yards, great deals at great prices, for
oddly shaped pieces
- Hardware stores (Revy, Home Depot, Canadian
Tire), sell some plates, rods, box, and circular
stock.
- Calgary Metal, Various sizes of new and scrap
metal (good if you want thicker plates then
you can find in hardware stores), and some box,
rods and circular stock, and dirt cheap new
stuff, scrap stuff, and lots of stuff. Big and
heavy you pay by the pound so try to
Tools You Should Have:
- Hacksaw (try to get a HSS 'shatterproof' blade
rather then a standard High Carbon Steel blade
which (from experience) can shatter).
- "Utility" Knife.
- Files.
- Big Steel Vice.
- Bending Bars.
- Dremel (has a good selection of metal tools).
- Drill and good drill bits (try to get better
then the standard HSS like Titanium
coated (oooh Titanium.... Look a 3/8"
....oooh oversized), or if you really use your
drill bits, and can spare the money, go with the
Cobalt impregnated bits).
- 1 to 60 (from Acklands Grainger), and 61 to 80
drill bits from Lee Valley
- 1 Ton Hand Punch.
- Hand drill (if
you do a lot of work with plastic). Or
- Digital Caliper.
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